The Mukhtiyars in Feudal Sikkim

In the feudal administrative hierarchy of Sikkim, the Mukhtiyars enjoyed position next to the Kazi/Thikadars. Anna Balikci presumes that, the term got its origination from Ottoman Empire as the village Chiefs there were known as Mukhtar.We do not have much information about the commencement of this system in Sikkim. The available Official documents issued from the Royal Durbar are silent about the existence of any offices related to the Mukhtiyars hence, they were probably appointed by the Kazis in their Elakhas to maintain law and order in their estates. Auxiliary, documents belonging to Rai Saheb Durga Sumsher Pradhan of Rhenock also indicate that the Mukhtiyars were appointed by the Kazis and by other lessee holders.

Further, my field survey report bears ample testimony to the fact that the Mukhtiyars were given the charge of a whole Elakah of a lessee holder or a Thikadar. He was also granted the charge of litigation under his jurisdiction. Their duty was akin to today’s District Magistrate and was with a few hereditary exceptions, appointed on merit.From the pictures collected from the erstwhile Mukhtiyar family of Namchi in South Sikkim, it can be stated that they had a comfortable and a reverential life.

Photograph of Mukhtiyar San Man Tamang of Namchi South Sikkim. The person sitting on a chair in the middle was the Mukhtiyar. The golden ornaments of the women and the dress they clad in shows that they had a very comfortable way of life. The people standing behind were the peasants of his estate in Namchi. Pic. Courtesy Late Rup Maya Tamang, Namchi Bazaar, South Sikkim

Being a local of the Estate owned by the Kazis, the Mukhtiyars had detail information about the settlers. The Kazis and Thikadars, being the “high born” elites of the Kingdom hardly visited their respective holdings in the villages and preferred to live in comfort in the beautiful mansions in the capital of the Kingdom. The Kazis usually gave charges to trusted persons residing in their estates. In another word, the Mukhtiyars were to serve the Kazis as a bridge between the peasants and the Landlords.They also had to maintain the land records related to the peasants of his Elakah. As the trusted persons of the Kazis, the Mukhtiyars too possessed a vast tract of land for their personal use and the same was distributed among the Pakhureys. The descendents of Tashiding Mukhtiyar still profess the exploitative money lending job to the peasants in their periphery.

The information of the descendants of the Mukhtiyars highlights that they too lived their lives in a great comfort. They had many servants at their residence who were mostly the children of the tax defaulters.They had to make necessary arrangements in their Elakhas during the visit of King and other high ranking native and British Officials.The life standard enjoyed by the Mukhtiyars was almost similar to the Kazis and Thikadars. They had constructed beautiful mansions, travelled on the back of Arabic horses, and possessed enormous wealth. The Kothi of Namchi Mukhtiyar which was constructed nearly a century ago still steals a glimpse or two of every visitor. However, it appears that these officials were not prevalent in every estate hold by the lessee holders like the Kazis and Thikadars. The estates in the proximity of the Kingdom’s capital did not have any office related to the Mukhtiyars.

References

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Balikci, Anna (2008), Lamas, Shamans and Ancestors- Village Religion in Sikkim, Brill, Leiden, The Netherlands

Appointment letter of 1932 of a Mukhtiyar by Rai Saheb Durga Sumsher Pradhan  of Rhenock East Sikkim preserved at Ramgauri Sangrahalaya Rhenock

Information collected through personal interview from Mrs. Rup Maya Tamang, a granddaughter of erstwhile Mukhtiyar of Namchi Late San Man Tamang on 23rd April 2010

Information collected through personal interview from the peasants of Tashiding village in West Sikkim on 21st  and 22nd December 2011

 Information collected from the villages of Assam Lingzey, Kadamtam, Aho, Namin, Marchak and Samdur which are in proximity to Gangtok.

Antique Lepcha House at Tashiding Chongrang

The Old Lepcha at Chongrang

Antiques and artifacts have always fascinated me since my childhood which was possibly the rudiments in my unripe infant mind for an advanced historical investigation in my days to come. I have just loved these relics and have always enjoyed their structural designs. They are just awe-inspiring and are the bystanders of the “massive alter” which has utterly changed the very face of a human society. During my Post Graduate  Days in Pune University, I always enjoyed to sit and study at Saniwarwada, the remains of the erstwhile palace of the Peshwas. Though, it was burnt down by the British after their antagonism with the Peshwas, but it still has many features to drag the attention of a history lover. The other such structures where I always wanted to visit in Pune were Vishrantawadi, Aga Khan Palace, Deccan College, and Ferguson College and so on. They have always inspired me to love such remains with a great sense of respect.

There are many such antiques scattered throughout the state of Sikkim, but, our tendency of chirping into the History of Sikkim from the windows of marvellous edifice of Gangtok has compelled such antiques to remain behind the curtail. It is an irony to say that the objects of historical importance are not dragging any attention of any NGOs and authorities. This is a tale of an old Lepcha House, counting its last days, situated at Chongrang at Tashiding in West Sikkim. The present owner of the said Lepcha House is Mr. Tshwang Tashi Lepcha. He has informed us that it was constructed somewhere 140 years before by his great grand father. If we have to believe on his aphorism, the House was constructed in 1871 and bears all the traditional features of a Lepcha House.

Plastic Cover- A temporary measure

The old Lepcha structural design is standing on the huge log pillars on every corners of the foundation. For the further support to the house, stone walls on the two sides are constructed and has left open to serve other village purpose like keeping the ripe crops or may say keeping livestock during rainy season and so on. Above the walls and wooden pillars rooms were separated for the residential purpose. The floor in the upstairs is made up of firewood, which are kept crisscrossing each other. This sort of built-up not only makes a structure strong but also provides warmth to fight against the chilling winters.

The roof of the House

The most interesting part of this house is indeed its roof which is still covered with Siru (a local grass used by Sikkimese peasantry to serve the purpose of covering a house or shed). I still can remember my childhood days when we too had a house which had a roof of Siru and during rains it had considerable leaching. To tie up the said grass with the bamboo piece, the ancient Lepchas had use Choya (a thread made by pilling a bamboo). To give a final touch to the roof, they used Choya in a most synchronising manner so that the grass could remain intact to protect the house from seepage.

Another striking feature of this house is that it was constructed without using a single nail. To keep other beams and woods firmly, they made holes on the huge wooden pillars so that it could remain at the exact place where it was suppose to be. The floor of firewood was pasted by a thick layer of clay that could give them warmth and they could also keep fire burning the whole night during winters.

Mr. Tshewang Tashi Lepcha-the present owner

This old Lepcha House is at the verge of its demise and its owner, Mr. Tshewang Lepcha is unable to maintain it due to his poverty. The stones of its wall are getting away from their places and its roof has got many holes. He has now made a temporary arrangement by covering its roof by a plastic to keep his family members safe from the rain. Likewise, the floor is decaying and to get rid of it the owner is still following traditional method of pasting those patches with clay. This house needs an immediate attention from the concerned authorities or else it will be decayed within a few years. 

Tashiding Monastery- Greatly shaken by 6.9 Magnitude Earthquake

Destruction inside Tashiding Monastery Pic. Chogyal Bhutia

Tashiding is a small village situated in the Western part of Sikkim and is regarded as the most holy land on earth by the followers of Tibetan Buddhism. The village has a monastery which is popular with the name of Tashiding Monastery. It is one of the oldest monasteries of Sikkim. Constructed in 1641A.D, by a revered Saint Ngadak Sempa Chempo of Ningmapa sect of Tibetan Buddhism is also a National heritage site categorized by the Ecclesiastical Department, Government of Sikkim. The word Tashiding in Tibetan means depth of auspiciousness. As stated above, the place is regarded as one of the holiest place by the Buddhists around the world. Tashiding is surrounded by four holy caves from four different directions which is the prominent facet to make this place the holiest one. In the East of Tashiding, Shar-chog-bey Phog (Phog in Tibetan means Cave) is situated near Ravangla. On the Western part of Tashiding, there is Dechen Phug at Darap Nambu. Similarly, Lharing Nying Phug at Labdang Tashiding is at the northern direction of sacred Tashiding Monastery. Finally, Lho- Khandro Sang Phug at Reshi/Legship is in the southern part of the shrine. It is also said that Mahaguru Padmasambhava, who is also known as Guru Rimponche in the Tibetan Buddhist world has also blessed this place in the 8^th Century A.D. Thus, the place is a sanctified, exalted and sanctimonious not only to the Buddhists of Sikkim but to the entire Sikkimese populace who are now interweaving themselves in a yarn of a common Sikkimese culture.

Tathagata himself speaks at Tashiding Pic. Chogyal Bhutia

Being one of the oldest monasteries of Sikkim, the historical importance of Tashiding cannot be overlooked.  Tensung Namgyal, the second king of Namgyal Dynasty (that ruled Sikkim from 1642 to 1975) was born at Tashiding in 1644 A.D. The latter shifted his capital from Yoksam to Rhabdentse after his consecration in 1670, as the Second Ruler to the Namgyal Throne. Further, Tashiding was also sanctified with the elegance of Rikgzing Goedem Chen in 12^th and 13^th century who had come to Sikkim from Tibet. This revered Lama has constructed a monastery at Nesha Paohungri, which still has its ruins at Nesha, north to present days’ Tashiding Monastery. Had this monastery been in a standing position it could have been regarded as the oldest monastery of Sikkim. Presently, this position is enjoyed by Dubdi Monastery of Yoksam in West Sikkim. It is said that, Rikgzing Goedem Chen divulged many treasures hidden by Mahaguru Padmasambhava in Sikkim.

Being a hallmark of Tibetan Buddhism, Tashiding monastery observes a pious festival of Bom- Chu which dates back to 1641 A.D. The literary meaning of Bom-Chu is Holy Vase Water. It is believed that, the vase on which the Chu or Water is contained was made by Guru Rimponche himself. This festival is celebrated here on the full moon of first month of Tibetan Calendar.

Pic. Chogyal Bhutia

The place with such a historical importance was also greatly shaken by the recent earthquake occurred on September 18^th. The devastating earthquake has destroyed its ceiling, walls and even its floor. The earthquake measuring 6.9 Richter scale has nearly put down the structure on the ground. But, possibly due to the immense faith of the Sikkimese towards this shrine, the Tashiding Monastery is still standing and blessing the entire Denzong Valley.

Locals of Tashiding clearing wreckage after the Earthquake Pic. Chogyal Bhutia

Floor of the shrine after the Earthquake Pic. Chogyal Bhutia

The locals and monks of this monastery have recently conducted a Menlem (prayer) in the name of the departed souls, who lost their lives in the catastrophe of September 18^th in Sikkim. It also conducted Dok-Thap (Puja to protect Sikkim from such cataclysm) from 4^th of October to 6^th of October 2011 praying his Almighty to protect this tiny Himalayan state from any such devastation. 

The aftermath of Earthquake at Namchi

Statue of Lord Shiva- The Trisul is broken Pic. Pranika Gurung

The earthquake that occurred on 18^th of September will be always remembered by every Sikkimese till the end. It was a horrific shake, a mind-boggling of which none of our people have ever imagined. The earthquake measuring 6.9 Richter Scale nearly swept the smallest state of the Indian Union. The massive event took place at 6:10 on Sunday evening when most of our people were busy in their homely affairs . The sound was terrible, a bloodcurdling one. The whole structure was shivering and I got tuck within my room doing nothing to help my family. It was perfectly a dying situation, a catch 22. In such circumstances, when my wife hugged me, I realized how important life is for all and also apprehended the value of a loved one during a trouble. After the shake of almost 40 seconds the horror got solace and we managed to make ourselves out of the building. After the wobble, when I rushed down to the street I saw an unusual gathering in which most of them were crying with their near and dear ones.

It was raining outside- the day was also disobliging. Due to the power cuts we were unable to recognize each other on the street but, I can witness fear in everyone’s eyes. Most of them were shivering and telling the tale of how they got escape from the mouth of fatality. From the street, one and all were busy in getting connected to their family members. I too made a call and got a relief to know that my family was safe without any physical damage. Though, the cell phones were not working we had been able to receive few calls from outside the state. My friends from Mumbai, Pune and New Delhi informed me about the magnitude of the earthquake. After hearing it I literally got frisson. On my silence my wife asked me about the matter but, I simply answered her “We escape death”.  

A Cracked House at a Village of South Sikkim Pic. Pranika Gurung

After the havoc, rumor reined the entire state. Many of them in the crowd were talking about a next devastation. Most of them were equating the event with the judgment of God. Few intellectuals were discussing about the movement of tectonic plates and many others were listening to the rumors of another fatality. After spending nearly three hours on the street we made our way to our house. The entire night no one slept in the whole town and in the whole state. Everyone spent the night of 18^th September in counting the aftershocks. All together there were nearly 20 aftershocks subsequent to the big hit of 6:10.

The next day when our cell phones began to function, I got many calls from my friends scattered all around India. Few local friends informed me about the damages taken place in various heritage sites of Sikkim. I felt very bad to hear that the famous Enchey Monastery in Gangtok, Tashiding Monastery in West Sikkim and Dubdi Monastery (the oldest monastery of Sikkim) was badly damaged due to the massive earthquake. Pende Laptse, popularly known as Nga Dak Monastery which is also a lone heritage site of Namchi might have born the shake. If possible and if it is standing, I will be posting more posts on this 300 year old monument of Southern Sikkim.

Today I got a report from one of my students Miss Pranika Gurung of Namchi Government College about the devastation made by the Hit at the periphery of Namchi. According to this Official Report there is a massive destruction in the south Sikkim as well.

Earthquake Updates form Namchi as Informed by DPO LR&DDM Pempa Narbu Sherpa.
Miniram-Singithang: 65 house severely damage.
Lunchuk-kameray: 50 houses severely damage.
Ralong-Nalang GPU; 50 houses fully damage and three houses collapsed.
Mikhola-Kitam: 7houses fully damaged and 1 mandir damaged.
Tingrithang GUP: 29 houses fully damaged 100 houses severely and partially damaged and 20 families will be shifted at Namchi Government College by 9pm today and 10 families had given safe shelter at Chief Minister’s home at KLholaghari.
Temi Tarku GPU; 114 houses severely Damaged and 20 families are safely evacuated and provided safe shelter.
Namchi: More than 50 RCC buildings severely damaged and had cracks.
SPIL buildings got crack on walls and cracks on walls and staff quarters of Namchi District Jail. 
Boomtar landslide aggravated and nearby houses was shifted to safe shelter.
Sai Mandir Assangthang: several cracks had been reported.
Solophok Char Dham; Trisul broken, Ringfinger holding dammaruo broken, several cracks on the body of statue of 5mm.
Gate leading to statue sustain cracks about 2 to 6 inch and many cracks had been found leading to Solophok road.
Melli PHC had been severely damaged and shifted to nearby school and private houses.
More than 9 school buildings fully collapses including kaccha building and 8 schools got major damaged.
BAC Sikip: 7 houses fully damaged.
Namthang BAC: 30 houses damaged.

Namchi mourns for the victims Pic. Pranika Gurung 

Apart from Namchi, Mangan the epicenter of the earthquake is in a total distressing situation. The death toll is increasing hour after hour at the epicenter. I have been trying to call my friends there but unable to do so due to network hurdles. I wish everyone’s safety at Mangan and pray for those who have lost their lives in the earthquake.

Chak Tha Rimponche.....A fact or an anecdote?

The history of Sikkim is always surrounded with the folklore, mysteries and fictions. It is covered by a thick blanket of legend and mythology in which one can find births, re births and incarnations and much mythological bits and pieces which in fact have no credibility in history. But, even being mythological in nature they cannot be ignored entirely as they have their roots in our times of yore. The photograph pasted here belongs to a person who was then known as Chak- Tha Rimponche, who according to the people of Tashiding West Sikkim, used to be a conventional Buddhist. Chak Tha was a Bhutia by caste who hailed from Tashiding (Gangyap), West Sikkim and a Lama by profession. But, according to the few natives of Tashiding, at a distance from his occupation he used to tame cattle in the forest of Pokhri- Dara and its neighboring area. The descendents of those cattle tamers believe that Chak Tha had some paranormal power by which he could even control the nature. It was due to his clairvoyant smack he could fly like a bird which (according to the belief of the local people) could prove a great calamity for them. Therefore, to avoid such disaster Chak Tha was kept like a captive by his village men and Lamas by tying him with an iron chain which weighed more than a quintal.  Due to the lack of evidences it is not possible to ascertain his definite period. But, when we stumble upon with the photograph of the Rimponche it becomes clear for us to understand that he certainly lived in Sikkim after the latter’s contact with British India. Because, before the advent of the British, camera, photographs and sketches were dreamlike things to the Sikkimese society.  

The account of Chak- Tha greatly allured me in the beginning but, when I heard the whole narrative I found it to be larger-than-life. The half naked body along with some other unknown object proves that he was a great Tantric Lama who certainly was the follower of Tibetan Tantricism. The Dammaru in front of him (right hand side), his hair-style, and a Trisul kind of entity on his left hand makes it clear that Chak- Tha was a great Tantric Lama who in all probability exhibited his acquaintance in front of the villagers and those acts of the Rimpoche later became the legends in the village and transferred from one generation to another. But, apart from all other issues, it is a fact that Chak Tha was a native of Tashiding (Gangyap) and his family still lives at the very same place where he had his eminence.

The picture was possibly taken by some British officials on their way to the famous Tashiding monastery.