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Photograph of one of the Sikkim tents at the Delhi Durbar in 1903. |
The
earlier Himalayan Kingdom of Sikkim was a secluded one until it made her
contacts with the British East India Company. The Anglo- Gurkha war has
provided her a bigger platform to maintain a cordial relation with the British.
Though, she pleased the East India Company by transferring the Hilly tracts
(that also includes plains of south of Teesta) of Darjeeling in 1935, she was
frequently victimized by the mercantile policies of the Company. The whole
reign of Maharaja Sir Thotub Namgyal can be regarded as a period of “Dissatisfaction”
in Anglo-Sikkim Relations. The appointment of Political Officer in Sikkim was
indeed a new measure taken up by the British Indian Government to maintain a status-quo
at the buffer zone; on the contrary, it led the British Indian Government to
have an Upper Hand in the Administration of Sikkim. She was kept in a ‘Political
Seclusion’ by the British Political Officer, who designated himself as the de-facto
ruler of the Kingdom.
It can be said that Sikkim
had broken its political slumber only after attending the Delhi Durbar of 1903.
The Durbar was an event organized by the then Viceroy of India Lord Curzon,
(1898-1905). The main motive for the grand ceremony was to celebrate the
coronation of newly crowned King Edward VII who was declared Emperor of India
on New Year’s Day, 1903.
The programme of events lasted over 10 days. It began
with the grand opening procession on 29th December, where the Viceroy, the Duke
and Duchess of Connaught, other British VIPs and Indian Princes paraded through
the streets of Delhi on elephants.
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Sikkim tents at the Delhi Durbar, 1903. A Sketch of Beryl White |
The ruler of Sikkim, Sir Thotub Namgyal was also invited
in the event to attend the Grand Celebration. The Maharaja contentedly accepted
the invitation, and deputed his son and successor, Sidkyong Trulku, the
Maharaj-Kumar, to be his representative. The native Ruling chiefs were allotted
camping sites along with the others Sikkim also got a place to build its camp
to be the witness of the huge Extravaganza. The whole of India was then
delighted; Sikkim also got a chance to be a part of it.
The Sikkimese tents were delightfully
picturesque and unusual, made after Tibetan fashion with an elaborate design in
appliqué cloth of many colours on the roofs, while the sides were decorated
with the eight lucky signs: The Wheel of Life; the Conch Shell, or Trumpet of
Victory; the Umbrella; the Victorious Banner; the Golden Fish; the Lucky
Diagram; the Lotus; and the Vase: so constantly reproduced in Buddhist
ornamentation. The camp attracted many visitors, amongst them Their Royal
Highnesses the Duke and Duchess of Connaught. In
the absence of the Maharaja, the Maharaj-Kumar was allowed to represent his
father and was accorded his salute of fifteen guns, Cavalry escort, and
military guard on the camp. He also took his place in all the great State
functions, riding an extremely fine elephant lent for the occasion by the Betiah
Raj, in the Chiefs’ Procession, beside the Mahraja of Cooch Behar, and
presenting his address to the King-Emperor through the Viceroy at the great
Durbar.
The
speech of Maharaj Kumar Sidkyong Trulku was very distinguishing : ‘May His Majesty King Edward VII, from the
time of occupation of this Golden Throne, exercise power over all these worlds;
may be live for thousands of cycles and ever sustain all living creatures in
joy and happiness.’
It
was the Kumar’s first attempt at playing host to a number of European guests,
and he did it very nicely with Mrs. White’s help, looking carefully after the
comfort of the eight or ten guests staying in the camp and always delighted to
welcome people to lunch or dinner. He was most appreciative of any assistance we
could give him, and constantly said he would have been quite unable to carry
out any of his arrangements alone.’
The
Sikkimese representatives headed by the heir apparent to the throne Sidgyong Trulku
reached Delhi to attend the celebration on December 16th 1902 in a
special train. It is to be noted here that the delegation had to board itself
from the Siliguri Junction to reach Delhi. They were also accompanied by the
Bhutanese representatives. According to Beryl White who also prepares a sketch
of the Sikkimese Tents during the event-The Sikkimese camp is horse shoe shaped,
with a round grass centre. On the right entrance are the tents for the guests. The
left side is wholly Tibetan in design and material. A row of tall masts with
prayers printed on red, green and blue cloth lead to the entrance of a large
courtyard formed of Tibetan cloth, emblazoned with the emblems of good luck,
interlaced circles being conspicuous.
The
centre of the court yard is occupied by the same signs worked in flowering
plants, while the walls are adorned with ancient portraits of saints painted on
large banners.
The
main room is surmounted by a roof literally covered with conventional signs in
which the head and hands of the protecting Sikkim demons are conspicuous, while
eight emblems of happiness are worked in colours on four of the front tents and
four of the back.
The interior displays a complete Lama altar,
with magnificent specimens of ecclesiastical work in gold and silver plate.
On
the walls are ancient specimens of embroidered priestly robes, surmounted by
unique aprons and carved human bones, with a magnificent deep fringe of deep
embroidered silk; while a canopy of silk covers the space where the visitors
are received.
Scattered
about are quaint swords, handsome rings, enormous trumpets, and various
curios. A covered way leads to the dining room, where the Kumar, who talks
English, takes his meals with his guests.
The
interior is draped plainly in scarlet, but the outside of the tent is also
covered with Tibetan insignia. The whole has been designed by and carried
out under the immediate supervision of the Kumar. It took some months to
complete. Beyond is another smaller Tibetan enclosure for purely business purposes.
This
is the first occasion on which a complete Tibetan camp has been seen in the
plains of India. The elephant which carried the Kumar is a magnificent tusker,
one of the finest in Delhi, while the howdah and trappings are wholly of
gold-plate embroidery.’